Rear wheel O-rings


When taking out the ST1100 rear wheel, it is advised to replace the three O-rings you encounter. This is how and why I did it.

01

01: Before taking out the rear wheel, the rear fender should be removed. To do this, this bolt has to be removed at the right and left side.

02

02: And this one (in the centre) also. Then the rear fender will slide off easily.

03

03: Here the parts needed for this job. The Moly 60 grease is hard to obtain in Europe, so I ordered it directly from the US. The O-rings are advised to be changed every time the wheel comes off and we are about to see why.

04

04: First, remove the rear axle flange nut and pinch bolt, then loosen the calliper bracket stopper bolt and take out the rear axle. Then remove the brake calliper. (According to the Clymer manual, the stopper bolt has to be loosened only, whilst the Haynes manual mentions that Honda advises to replace this bolt. I followed Clymer here!) Note that I placed a wedge in the calliper to prevent it's accidentally closing.

05

05: From left to right: rear axle, flange nut, pinch bolt and collar (The shiny side of the collar goes into the wheel.)

06

06: To remove the wheel, it is advised to support it with a piece of wood, then move it to the left side. Whilst doing this, pay attention that the driven flange with the pins stays in the wheel, otherwise the wheel can not come out.
There is a hole in the bottom of the plastic cover (photo 13) that can be used to assist here with a screwdriver.

07

07: Here we encounter the first O-ring to be replaced (Barely visible behind the cams)

08

08: Hard to see here, but this O-ring is flattened and thus needs replacement. Note that in most drawings this O-ring and washer are shown to be mounted together. In fact, the O-ring fits behind the cams on the driven flange, whilst the washer goes to the other side of it.

09

09: When the driven flange is removed from the wheel, we encounter the second O-ring. This one is completely worn and has no more function since it's completely sunken into that groove.

10

10: This picture of the old and the new one together clearly shows why replacement is needed.

11

11: Note that the inside here is heavily polluted. Logically because of the worn out O-rings.

12

12: Looking better now. My rubber blocks have minor play, whilst the aluminum busses also show signs of wear. I decided however that these do not require immediate replacement.

13

13: If the distance collar came out, put it back with the machined end into the final drive.

14

14: And finally that third O-ring!

15

15: Whilst the wheel is out, it is generally a good time to inspect the rear bridge for corrosion. Then all can be mounted again.

Torque values:
Damper holder bolts = 20 Nm (photo 09)
Rear axle nut = 110 Nm
Rear axle pincher bolt = 27 Nm
Rear brake calliper stopper bolt = 70 Nm
Fender bolt = 12 Nm